Temaki Sushi

In a city full of omakase and sushi counters, this is an anomaly. Yes, the setting is calm and elegant, with dim lighting and vinyl spinning. But the centrepiece of the $145 set menu (which begins with a welcome sake) is a platter displaying 11 colourful morsels of food.

This is temaki sushi, where diners receive seaweed squares, rice and a tray of fillings for self-assembly. Take that road, or you can simply deliver each to your mouth by chopstick. Seared scallop, flying fish roe and grapefruit make a compelling trifecta. Seared bonito is eye-opening when wrapped into a handroll with ginger and soy-marinated eggplant.

You may marvel at the sweet pop of a single cherry tomato from owner Allan Greenfield’s farm, paired with a vinegary koji dressing. Afterward there might be flat ribbons of himokawa udon or somen noodle in bonito dashi broth, and hojicha pudding with raspberry and pistachio.

Best for: Exploring Japanese flavours without the constraints of omakase.

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