Australia’s second-oldest city has entered a bold new era

From boom to bust, Newcastle’s seen it all. From steelmaking powerhouse to post-industrial slump following BHP’s exit. Now Australia’s second-oldest city has a newfound spring in its step.

The CBD, all but deserted when satellite shopping centres opened, is roaring back to life. Newcastle is now proudly home to NSW’s largest public art institution outside of Sydney, while the opening of a new international airport terminal connects the city to Bali, Singapore and beyond.

A thriving food scene means everything from hatted restaurants and cool bars to a Florence-inspired deli and pubs punching above their weight are on offer.

A coastal city with the beach as its backyard, Newcastle has seen unprecedented development in the past decade. The old rail line has been replaced by a new public transport interchange and a $600 million light rail. Then there’s the two CBD campuses for the University of Newcastle and the opening of the first offshore campus of Japan’s Nihon University in the former heritage-listed law courts.

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The $880 million East End reinvigoration by Iris Capital spanning four city blocks nears completion and the art deco Newcastle Ocean Baths have been restored, while three five-star hotels have opened in the past five years: the Crystalbrook Kingsley, QT Newcastle and Little National.

There’s also a jam-packed events calendar featuring Newcastle Food month, Newcastle Writers Festival and New Annual, directed by Tory Loudon, formerly of Vivid Sydney and Sydney Theatre Company.

Reece Hignell, MasterChef alumnus, owner-baker of Cakeboi and ambassador of Newcastle Food Month (now in its sixth year), says an influx of young talent is injecting new life and creativity into Newcastle’s burgeoning food scene.

“You can now go to a Japanese vinyl cafe for a dirty martini, enjoy an exceptional wine list at a neighbourhood bistro like Harrisons and eat at pubs like The Del where chef Steve Scott is now cooking after a stint under Gordon Ramsay.”

Hignell, who moved back to his hometown in 2020, says Newcastle’s food scene is competitive and on par with Sydney. “We’re a hotspot but we’ve grown up and matured over the past decade.”

Opened last November in the revamped Edwards site, a former restaurant and bar owned by Silverchair bass player Chris Joannou’s, Papalote is a collaboration between Michael Portley, Stephanie Wells (Humbug) and Eduardo Molina (The Flotilla). Diners can’t get enough of the antojitos, cold and raw dishes and al carbon proteins cooked beneath charcoal in a custom brick pit.

“It’s the perfect time for Papalote,” says hospitality heavyweight Molina. “It’s the kind of place diners are seeking out especially as international travel for many feels out of reach for now.”

Molina said the former Edwards site had the right bones for the taqueria and agave bar concept and he and Portley formerly worked there.