Bibi Ji

The festivities start as soon as the mango Mai Tai hits your lips. It arrives in a porcelain coconut with a cocktail umbrella, and fits right in among the technicolour fabric, neon-orange lights and Bollywood tunes.

If staff insist you order the thali, take heed. Part one consists of five chutneys served on a giant banana leaf. It’s stacked with pappadums for your personal dipping pleasure; tamarind-laced dahi puri; and the comforting contrasts of aloo tikki chaat, made with crisp potatoes and soft chickpeas.

Then out march the curries. Paneer tikka masala and black dhal are standouts, joined by cooling raita and tandoor-fired garlic naan. Kulfi falooda sends you off on a high. It’s a jubilee of rabri (the frozen, condensed milk dessert) with rose syrup, nuts, chia seeds and pink vermicelli. Attentive service means this is one party you’ll wish never ends.

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