‘The last of America’s great railway stations’ has a touch of Hollywood

Los Angeles to Flagstaff, Arizona, aboard Amtrak’s Southwest Chief train; a journey of 10 and a half hours.

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Los Angeles’ main rail terminal is famously known as “the last of the great railway stations”, having been built at the end of the era when trains dominated long-distance travel in the US. It’s a marvellous statement of confidence in the railways, built on a grand scale with a distinctive blend of architectural styles including art deco, streamline moderne and mission revival. The last of these heavily borrows from California’s Spanish heritage, lending a unique local resonance. The station’s lofty halls are hung with gigantic circular chandeliers above floors of terracotta and marble tiles, passengers lounge in large cushioned armchairs for passengers and there’s even a shoeshine business. It’s highly atmospheric, with a dash of old-time Hollywood energy.

Union Station is largely safe, with a notable security presence, though crimes against people and property sometimes occur. As always, be aware of your belongings and surroundings. Amtrak has luggage storage for $US20 ($28.30) per item if you hold an Amtrak ticket.

Top choice is the art deco-themed Traxx restaurant and bar, the latter serving cocktails in the station’s former telephone room. Another great option is craft brewer Everywhere, which additionally operates a cocktail bar called Streamliner. The usual chain outlets are also present at the station, along with a small supermarket that sells sandwiches among other items. If you have time to spare, my favourite dining option nearby is Philippe’s, a fun old-school diner with sawdust on the floor, famed for its French-dip roast beef sandwiches (dipped in gravy, that is, see philippes.com ).

Within the station there’s little to buy beyond food. Cross Alameda Street to the El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historical Monument – the foundation site of Spanish Los Angeles – and you’ll find the Olvera Street Mexican Marketplace, a colourful array of stalls selling Mexican craft items and foodstuffs in a charming old-world setting.

There are several attractions near Union Station, including the Avila Adobe historic home, the Italian American Museum of Los Angeles, the Chinese American Museum, the Plaza Firehouse (a firefighting museum), and the fascinating America Tropical Interpretive Centre which explores a controversial 1932 mural. Chinatown is within walking distance or one stop on the LA Metro’s A Line. It’s also enjoyable to simply explore Union Station’s beautiful architecture and public art, perhaps taking a breather in one of the gardens; see unionstationla.com

Sleeper passengers can use Amtrak’s Metropolitan Lounge, a quiet and comfortable space tucked away upstairs with complimentary beverages, snacks and Wi-Fi access. Before boarding my Arizona train I chill out here, welcoming the break from the station’s bustle. When the time comes, a staff member leads sleeper passengers to the right platform. Otherwise, check the station’s display boards, and note there’s no seating on the platforms.