A ‘modern Asian fusion’ pop-up is coming to Perth. Does our dining scene really need it?

Have I told you that I believe, hand on my heart, Perth is home to the best southeast Asian restaurants in the country?

Have I told you that we have initiatives such as the Colombo Plan – an anti-Communist ploy launched by Commonwealth nations in 1951 to boost social and economical development across Asia – to thank for the post-WWII influx of students and migrants from Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and other southeast nations to WA and the effect that this surge has had on the local food scene?

(Having said that, the Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie gold rushes in the late 1800s also helped shape our food culture; as did Australia taking over the administration of Cocos Keeling and Christmas Islands from Singapore in the 50s; ditto the Vietnamese civil war; plus the early, pre-First Fleet interactions between Malaysian seafarers and First Nations communities across the top of WA in the 1600s.)

And have I told you that I love being able to eat splendid chicken rice , Asian-inspired baked goods , Taiwanese beef noodles and their ilk across P-Town? And to have options for the above? And to be able to have vigorous discussions with mates about where to find top-shelf versions of each?

In short, when it comes to scratching Asian food itches, we have it very good out west.

Which is why I was surprised to hear that Crown Perth would be hosting Sum Yung Guys – a “modern Asian fusion” restaurant in Noosaville – for a six-week pop-up in September.

What, I wonder, would this temporary restaurant offer to Perth’s food scene, other than revisiting discussions about problematic, casually racist names? ( The restaurant’s name is a reference to the 90s comedy Wayne’s World .)

But since all of us are busier than ever and there are already other issues monopolising the bandwidth of online commentators, I’ll park that conversation for now. (Still, I’m curious about the message that hosting a pop-up called Sum Yung Guys sends to Crown’s Asian clientele and Thai chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij, who is opening a restaurant there next year .)

Instead, let’s focus on whether, right now, Perth really needs another modern Asian dining room – never mind a temporary one – when we’ve already got perfectly good modern Asian restaurants, like our parents would tell us, at home. (And that’s before we take into account local Asian pop-ups such as Special Delivery , Phat Rice or Messy Little Table .)

Especially when it’s been a challenging winter for existing restaurants. And especially when there are already so many great restaurants that have a track record of bringing much deliciousness to the table.

Sure, pop-ups tick the boxes for newness and discovery, but so can visiting (and revisiting) existing places.

For anyone keen to experience the breadth of Perth’s Asian dining food scene, consider taking the following for the spin.

So it’s traditional flavours given a modern makeover that you want? Set sail for this cheery Vietnamese cafe in Leederville where sharp banh mis, sticky chicken wings and cool Viet drinks rule.