France takes aim at ultra-fast fashion with fee per garment

From Tuesday, France will impose a fee on items that will eventually reach US$2.32 per garment, targeting platforms including Shein and Temu

France will from Tuesday impose a fee on ultra-fast fashion items that will eventually reach almost €20 (US$2.32) per garment, as the government targets major Asian e-commerce platforms including Shein.

The levy follows legislation passed by the French parliament in June to regulate “ultra-fast fashion” companies, known for selling large volumes of lower-quality clothing at rock-bottom prices.

It is part of a push to rein in Asian e-commerce giants including Shein, Temu and AliExpress, which have exploded in popularity in France in recent years.

“The harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion on our environment and our economy are well known and documented,” said Mathieu Lefevre, the minister for ecological transition on Friday as details of the measure were published.

Under the legislation, ultra-fast fashion will be determined according to two criteria: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price.

The per-item fee will vary on a set scale according to how each product scores on both these standards.

In 2026, companies will pay fines such as a 50 cent levy on underwear falling into the ultra-fast fashion category, rising to €2 for T-shirts, €9 for jeans and €12 for a jacket.