Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai, more than 130 years old shop in Madurai serving traditional sweets and savouries that evoke nostalgia

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Spicy cone-shaped pottalam at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai. | Photo Credit: R. ASHOK

In the bustling streets near the Meenakshi Amman Temple, a small shop continues to draw crowds, just as it has done for generations. The Aathi Kalathu Original Nei Mittai Kadai, which is more than 130 years old, is easy to spot near Pudumandapam thanks to its red board. Inside, shelves and the trays are filled with sweets and savouries that have been sold here for decades.

People buying and tasting halwa at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai. | Photo Credit: R. ASHOK

S Narasiman Sundaresan, who currently runs the shop, says the place was started by his forefather, G Muthuswamy Chettiar. It was later run by his son, M Rajamanickam, and, in the 1950s, by N Sundaresan, a close relative and Narasiman’s father. Over the years, the family has kept one aspect unchanged — the taste. “We have not added new items just because they are popular now,” says Narasiman.

The spicy cone-shaped pottalam at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai. | Photo Credit: R. ASHOK

He has seen many old sweet shops change over the years. Shops that once sold only sweets and savouries have become bakeries, with cakes, bread, buns, ice cream, cold drinks and several other items on their shelves.

“Earlier, a sweet shop was only for traditional sweets and snacks. Now everything is available in the same place,” he says.

Wheat halwa at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai. | Photo Credit: R. ASHOK

At his shop, the old favourites are still there. Wheat halwa is one of the most popular sweets. Thirattu paal halwa, made with milk and ghee, is also popular, especially among younger customers.

For customers who come to the shop, tasting halwa before buying is part of the experience. A small sample of wheat halwa is served on a mantharai leaf. It looks glossy and soft, with the aroma of ghee coming through even before the first bite. A small spoonful melts in the mouth, with the sweetness and ghee coming together well. It is slightly chewy too, almost like a soft piece of chocolate.

Next comes the thirattu paal halwa, also served in a mantharai leaf. It is softer and is almost semi-liquid. It does not have the chewiness of wheat halwa; instead, it feels smooth and delicate. One is rich and chewy, while the other is milky and smooth. With different textures and flavours, each dessert has its own set of fans.

Thirattu paal halwa at Aathi Kalathu Nei Mittai Kadai near Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple in Madurai. | Photo Credit: R. ASHOK

Then there is nei mittai , made with crushed groundnuts, jaggery and ghee. Wrapped like a candy, it is a favourite not only among youngsters but also among older customers. Narasiman says it has become particularly popular over the past six years.