Whisky galore – and now plenty more besides: exploring the Scottish island of Islay

Distilleries are the backbone of Islay’s economy and tourist trade.

Thanks to their success, other businesses – from breweries and farms to restaurants and chocolatiers – are now thriving and adding to the island’s appeal The Paps of Jura disappear into the mist as I pedal along the shores of Loch Indaal, and the rain cloud I’ve been racing finally catches up.

I stash my hire bike at Port Charlotte youth hostel , quickly change and make it to Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen just before the downpour.

I’m soon warmed, by the welcome then by a bowl of creamy fish chowder.

“We’ve plenty of fresh seafood just in,” is all the temptation I need to order the seafood plate.

It’s a bowl for one, but a hungry one, and soon I’m picking and cracking my way through piles of fat langoustines and crab claws, with hot whisky-butter scallops and plenty of bread and butter.

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