Nine of London's all-time greatest restaurants

From the Ritz to Rules, here are the institutions that David Ellis adores

The reopening of Simpson’s In The Strand this year prompted some thought: where else in London is an institution of that kind? The non-exhaustive list below attempts to answer that question.

As it is inspired by Simpson’s — a bastion of Britishness; Land Of Hope and Glory in restaurant form — this is a list of “typically British” restaurants, even if they serve French or, as with Ognisko, Polish food. All aside from E Pellicci match Simpson’s high price point, too. As such, it omits a huge number of restaurants that are also institutions, but of a different kind. There is, for example, no mention of Punjab in Covent Garden (80 years old), Chinatown’s Lido (opened 1969) or 1952’s Giovanni’s, the Italian not far from Punjab. Those restaurants, and a great many others across town, have contributed hugely to making London feel as it does, and are deserving of attention. It just so happened that on this occasion, they didn’t fit the brief.

So here are nine of the capital’s longest-standing and best restaurants, with a few other names thrown in. Most are already ancient; may their creaking bones walk on and on and on. I love them all.

Wiltons offers a glimpse into a world many suspect disappeared long ago, though of course it didn’t: aristocrats will always fade, judges will always fatten and when they do, they will want somewhere to dine. Wiltons draws a monied, mostly older crowd who go for seafood and things they remember nanny making. Nanny must have been very good: food is first-rate, particularly the cheese soufflé, and it remains, arguably, the best place for an oyster in London . Underneath what could be staid there is a smiling sense of mischief. Jackets and ties are strongly encouraged: that’s how they’ve always done it, since not long after it began as an oyster cart in 1742. Even its “new” home is over 50. Franco’s, down the road, is owned by the same company, but comparatively is barely a toddler (est 1945).

A war baby, Ognisko, founded in 1939 and opening in 1940 as a London home for exiled Poles. The restaurant has been through many guises since: the pink walls with gold event chairs era — a restaurant playing dress-up as Barbara Cartland, or perhaps supermarket salmon — may have been a low point. But since Jan Woroniecki took over 13 years ago, it has transformed into one of London’s most beautiful rooms, with a menu of (probably) London’s best Polish food, martinis finer than almost anywhere else, and a well-priced wine list that’s been sat down and thought about. The main dining room is the place to be, but the bar’s fun too. May it go on forever.

The beautiful Ognisko Press handout L’Escargot A recent visit to L’Escargot prompted an illuminative exchange. Having had a fashionable but disappointing lunch nearby, we sat for a drink. “Ah,” we said to each other. “A proper restaurant.” That is very much how L’Escargot — born 1896, at its current home since 1927 — feels. Reassuring; grown up. London’s oldest French restaurant is also among its best: within its grand, Georgian proportions is comfort in all ways.