Can travelling with a toddler be relaxing? I visited Australia’s happiest town to test the theory

Planning a holiday that’s enjoyable for both adults and toddlers requires prodigious skill. The mental gymnastics of nap navigation, finding accommodation with ample (safe) outdoor space and close-ish proximity to family-friendly attractions alone requires careful consideration.

It goes without saying that for this season of parenting, my proclivity for uncomplicated logistics means long-haul flights are on hold and road trips of more than three hours are off the table. A long weekend in regional Victoria, though, meets all of these requirements. The boutique wineries, famous local produce and contemporary dining options promise some adult fun, too.

Skipping city traffic is a plus (we’ve chosen to fly into Avalon airport, rather than Melbourne’s Tullamarine, from Sydney), as is the offer by our hire car company to install the car seat – a skill my husband and I are yet to master (see also: tantrum-free placement of toddler in said car seat).

We’re headed for the tiny town of Scotsburn, population 244 according to the 2021 census. It’s just an hour’s drive from the airport but, more importantly, only 20 minutes south of Ballarat – a charming city in Victoria’s Central Highlands that was recently named Australia’s happiest city and our base for the long weekend.

Upon learning that “Ballarat” comes from the Wadawurrung words balla and arat , meaning “resting place” I ponder the advice more experienced parents steadfastly offer that “holidays are just parenting in a different location”. In other words, rest they are not.

Victoria’s 1851 gold rush attracted plenty of migrants – Chinese, Irish, Scottish, European and North American – who originally set up shanty towns. Today, Ballarat Central, the city’s commercial hub, is set out as a grid pattern on a bluestone plateau overlooking Ballarat East and the surrounding goldfields once home to those transient settlers.

We arrive at our accommodation, Mingara Park Cottage, to find a loaf of freshly baked bread and a herd of goats and gaggle of geese visible through the floor-to-ceiling windows. The combination forces me to catch my breath; almost instantly, I am enchanted by the rhythm of country life and its promise of rejuvenation.

Originally a log cabin, the four-bedroom homestead has been reimagined for city folk in search of fresh air and a morning alarm clock of laughing kookaburras. Owners Wayne and Robyn purchased the cottage derelict and kept only the stone fireplace. The new interior is farmhouse-cosy, with a palette of warm whites, caramels and natural wood that complements the theatre of the surrounding countryside.

Two gates must be opened and closed to enter the property. At home, this would be a nuisance. Here, it feels almost satisfying. I’m no longer on a treadmill and have the time to complete simple tasks. Life is easier. Slower. Sweeter.